Today we passed another milestone. We completed our loop of the west and came back along roads we went out on. It hardly seems like more than three months ago, and how the country has changed. What a difference water makes in arid regions.
We completed our peaceful night accompanied only by the buzzing of mozzies itching to get in at us. Our three road trains were apparently our only visitors in the night and so, once we had reduced the buzzing inside the tent to to a pile of compost we had a warm night. In the morning, we had a little peace after dawn before the hoards descended again, so a quick packup was called for and off we went.
Eromanga was the cause of our route of choice. Not sure why I wanted to go there, just because it was the turnoff on the way to Windorah that we have never taken. Once there, it proudly proclaimed for itself the title of the Australian town further from the ocean than any other. Surprisingly it is only 860km from the Coral Sea.
Once there we found out that Eromanga has other claims to fame. It had a pastoral beginning with high hopes that the coming of the railway would build its future. The railway never came and so its star began to fade. Opal mining gave another brief flare, but opal miners are a rare breed, and so apart from generating the nickname “Opalopolis” for the town it did little but keep it ticking along. In the 1980s the coming of the oil business assured the short term future of the town.
Eromanga is in the centre of one of Australia’s richest oil fields, providing feedstock for distillate, kerosene and naphtha production. Unlike Ballera and Moomba further west, Eromanga can actually sustain a town population of oil workers, so some of the value stays in the area. Most of this information came from a presentation in the local hall put together with a Q150 grant.
From Eromanga it was only 100km back to Quilpie, on the way joining the road we travelled on the way out over three months ago. To appreciate the changed landscape, we again climbed Baldy Top outside Quilpie. Instead of being early morning in June, it was now lunchtime in October – much hotter, but equally much greener. All of the trees on top now had leaves and so the unimpeded view of then was now rather more patchy.
The road from Quilpie back to Charleville again was lined by flowers. Our local council worker in Eromanga was proud of how pretty his town was looking, but he could have been equally proud of the entire west. There was still much water beside the roads, and all of the creeks had water, but there was no problem with the roads fortunately for us.
Tonight we made Charleville. Lynne pointed out that of all of the times we have been to Charleville, this is the first time we have had to find accommodation. Previously we have always stayed with Lynne’s sister, or been passing through on our way somewhere. We took advantage of this fact by going to a twilight session at the cosmos centre. Fickle cloud actually worked to our advantage, as the operators raced from object to object between the clouds.
Only two more sleeps – getting close now!
