High country hydro

In the centre of Tasmania is a large plateau. At around 1000m it qualifies as at least sub-alpine and has a number of large lakes. Since the drop-offs at the sides are steep and the land relatively accessible, this was the site for Tassie’s first hydro scheme.

The stats are impressive in some senses. While the amount of power actually generated is not huge, at 300MW, the drop from the top lake to the power station at Poatina is over 800m, so that power can be generated with an economy of water. When it was commissioned in the 1960s that was enough power to supply Hobart. The water is extracted from the top lake via a 2km tunnel through the mountain. It emerges into a pipe which falls off the side of the mountain for around 650m. For the last 160+ metres the water again falls underground. The reason for this is a little interesting. To withstand that much pressure the pipe is quite special and was imported from Italy, along with technicians to install it. However, as the altitude falls, the pressure in the pipe rises to a point where it is actually more economical to put the power station underground so the final stages of the inlet can be supported by rock. With the power station nearly 200m below ground, the water leaves the turbines into another 2km long tunnel before it reaches the surface ground level.

Again, though, Tasmania seems no longer proud of its hydro. All of the roadside signage has been removed and even the road into the power station is unmarked. The township of Poatina created to build the scheme still exists as a retreat/conference centre with a permanent population, but pays almost no regard to its history. There was a slightly uneasy unreality that made us happy to leave.

High country with lakes attracts fishermen though. At least it attracts fishing shacks in small towns that we could find little evidence of occupation. Trout is the target and each lake seems to have its own campsites, but all quiet, and this is high summer. I’ve no idea when the season is.

So from the high plateau, we came down only a little to Derwent Bridge, at 700m the gateway to Lake St Clair. We are really only a little over 100km from Hobart, but I took the last two loaves of bread from the shop, and it was frozen, dated Dec 30. They don’t seem to eat bread or vegetables in this state. It was not a good omen. The Lake St Clair campsite was full, run by a commercial organisation. Even the national park had a multicultural feel to it, and could only offer camping a 10 minute walk from the road. No use to us. The offered options were 40km in either direction.

So we find ourselves tonight by the shores of Lake Prince William, only about 2km west of Derwent Bridge. This seems to be a more recent lake as the lakeside road goes underwater from place to place and has been rerouted. Probably a dozen places over about 1km but we are all tucked away and can’t really see each other. We have a place at Lake St Clair for tomorrow night, so the plan continues unchanged, but with an extra packup.

Caused us to check the camping option at Cradle Mountain. I didn’t realise that although there are huts at Cradle Mountain national park, there is no camping. The camping options are commercial some 5km or more from the walks, and very expensive, and they ask you to bring your own water! Sigh.

Still, at least we look like having a week of fine weather. Just been talking to a Queenslander from north of Gympie. He arrived in October for a six month planned visit. Is going to head home early because this is supposed to be the best of the weather and it has just been lousy the whole time. He’s not looking forward to it getting cold again and so is taking an early mark.