Dangerous Country

We entered some of the most dangerous country of the trip so far today. Not only did we survive the perils of the “footbridge risk area” leading to the “coast risk area”, after avoiding the “shallow water risk area” earlier in the day, but we have entered the serious foodie country around Margaret River.

Tonight finds us camped on Margaret River. At least we are meant to be. We had two maps tell us about this camping area, but the signage, or complete lack of it, obscured it from view even when we were within a few metres of it. Because of that, we spent an extra half hour or so driving around looking for it before we eventually came back and had another go. By that time it was too late to investigate, so that will be a job for the morning. We are about 20km upstream of Margaret River the town and there is only one other camper here that we know of, so it is very quiet.

It could be the ideal campsite, except the firewood provided is completely fireproof, being green and wet from recent rain. Once you get it burning you can see it, but not really feel it because the fire rings are very high, and most of the heat is consumed boiling the water from the wood. Can’t complain too much though. Fires and firewood have been very scarce this holiday, and it isn’t raining, so that is all good.

We dodged the showers packing up in Busselton this morning, before heading down to the jetty. It has the distinction of being the longest timber jetty in the southern hemisphere, owing to the fact that it was extended about seven times through its working life as the bay silted up, and ships grew larger with more draught. It is now about 1.8km long. Its working life ceased about 40 years ago and it remained a recreation centre while gradually falling into disrepair. It was earmarked for demolition which finally galvanised support for saving it. The funds allocated for demolition became a restoration seed fund before federal money finally kicked it into a project. It was due for completion this winter, but just our luck that it is still a few months away, so we couldn’t go on it further than the kiosk.

That seemed to be the only attraction in Busselton, so after a quick drive around it was off in the direction of Cape Naturaliste. Numerous bays dot the coastline as it becomes gradually more rugged around to the point. Standing on the point is a lighthouse, still in use as far as I can make out, but for a price you could walk inside it in a guided tour. We chose instead to take in the free museum and interpretive centre before taking in the loop walk around the lighthouse, a 2km easy stroll through flower fields of windblown hardy plants. Along the way we took in whales offshore on their southern migration and sealions playing in the shallows and on the rocks. The whales were too far away to work out which ones. I like to think it was my first blue whale, but really I have no idea.

With the cape rounded, we were into the rugged coastline “between the capes”. First stop was Ngigli cave. A quite extensive system that the easy walk takes an hour to do. You do, however, need to start it with a guide, and we just missed one tour so to wait for the next one would have taken more time than we had. We instead drowned our sorrows in the next winery we found.

The prices charged in the caravan parks down here is legendary, and the prospect of paying up to $100 for a piece of dirt for the night didn’t appeal, so we hatched a plan to hit this recreation reserve. A little east of the planned route, it allowed us to navigate through a maze of dairies, fudge factories, old-fashioned sweet shops, a toffee maker, wineries, olive oil purveyors, soap factories, jams, chutneys, pestos, dukkahs and any number of other condiments. An expensive journey, but one which should enrich the catering for a good while. My only gripe was that a vote meant that if the passengers weren’t allowed to buy furniture, then I wasn’t to take them to any more galleries. I suspect I have power of veto, but I haven’t exercised it yet.

Tomorrow we backtrack a little to cover a few of the things we missed before closing time, before heading back to run the gauntlet of Margaret River proper and hopefully emerging from the other side in time to hit the cheaper bush camps.