Carnarvon

A quick survey of the tourist brochure last night indicated a wide variety of attractions around here so a second night was indicated to give us a full day in the area. Turned out to be a good call. A selection of natural, historic, technology and food filled out the day nicely.

 

Started the morning at the obligatory “i” to sort out the best options  for the day. Then down to the harbour to check out the fishing fleet and back around to the other side to look at the beach side. A cool and overcast morning with a breeze blowing cut short our frolic.

Down to the one mile jetty for a look. It was built first up in the 1880s out of south-west jarrah and it is currently in the process of being rebuilt by a team of volunteers, but the cost of replacing a single pylon is still estimated at $2500. They seem to be about half way through the 400 that need replacing. The timber that comes out you might think is rotten looking at the outside, but an old wagon restored from reclaimed timber looks just stunning.

The jetty precinct has seen a lot of varied action over the years, with a local meatworks that turned into a fish and shark processing facility. The jetty also was used to export wool from the Gascoyne area. A lighthouse is also in the area, although the original timber structure suffered from the attention of the local termites. Whaling continued through to the 1950s. A disparate collection of historical groups is working on many varied restoration projects, but when it finishes it will be a fine area.

Not surprisingly it took us a while to get out of the area, so by the time we escaped it was nearly lunch time. We needed a few supplies so we were obliged to hit a couple of the food stalls first. The first place tempted us with choc-dipped frozen fruit. After we had bought a few fruit and veg, the proprietor hit Isabel with a free choc-dipped mango, so then we had to try the custard apple and black sapote versions. Very tasty.

From there it was onto the now-historic OTC satellite ground station. In concept similar to the Parkes dish – a parabolic reflector on a moveable base. Last used in the 1980s, it had roles in the moon landing and the first satellite live broadcast between the UK and Australia. Now unused, it is also the subject of a local restoration project to create a visitor centre.

After lunch we hit the fruit and veg run. Like a combination of Stanthorpe and Gatton, there are lots of small orchard or market garden holdings with a roadside or coldroom store. Some did the value add of choc-dipped bananas, or jams and preserves, but perhaps fortunately no wine. A wide variety of vegetables, but no root vegies, and fruit, including citrus, strawberries and bananas. We have just enjoyed a fair quantity of it tonight.

The day got rather late, and so it was about 4pm before we headed off to the blowholes in the Quobba area, about 60km to the north. A wild and remote place. Stunning scenery, with a strong swell crashing into a rugged limestone coastline, made famous by the numerous blowholes in the area. There was a classic shanty town camping area just south. We aren’t sure why it is there, but there would have been more than a hundred people there. As far as we can make out fishing is banned in the area, and we didn’t see any fishing gear really.

There is a property called Quobba Station which takes campers about 10km further north, and provides basic supplies. Just south of there is a memorial to the sinking of HMAS Sydney by the German ship the Kormoran. It had not been updated to mention the recent discovery by wreck hunters.

High on the hill behind this area is a lighthouse, still flashing its warning of the rugged coast. It was quite a stunning setting for sunset looking over the wild coastline.