Sickness Country

The Jawoyn people call the south-eastern area of Kakadu”Sickness Country”. They advise you not to enter, only for a day or two, and not to disturb the country while there. Is it a coincidence that with the coming of white man and their thirst for mineral wealth that they found Uranium there? I think not. Then what are we to make of the case of Coronation Hill, named for the coronation of QEII and earmarked as another mine. It was the fight over this mine that led ultimately to the land claim that ended further mineral exploitation of the region, and the creation of Kakadu, with the resulting successful land claim by Aboriginal people.  (Donald)

Perhaps because of the stakes (200,000 visitors per year) or the relatively late invasion by Balanda (non aboriginal people),here, again aboriginal culture is well represented and seems quite detailed and comprehensive (that which can be public knowledge). After an earlier start we drove North stopping at Bukbukluk (lookout) where the kids were fascinated to watch a wasp attack and kill a huge huntsman (spider). Then on to Maguk (Barrmundi Gorge), which was quite a find. Only 10k of dirt and then a 1k walk along a lovely creek bed (and forest) to a plunge pool. Many were swimming but we were happy to watch all the fish (who were waiting expectantly to be fed).

After lunch we drove on to Mardugal, thinking we’d camp there, but after a walk down to the waterhole and back decided to go on as was rather hot and dry (no grass). At Cooinda Resort we parted with an insane amount of money for a Yellow Waters Cruise tomorrow morning and one night camping. Warradjan Cultural centre was next and well deserved the awards it has gathered since opening. No photos allowed and we all probably only took in a fraction of the stories and information on offer. The boys were keen to part with some cash again (postcards and a purse for Louis and hat pin for Elliot). Last stop was a look at Yellow Water were you could go a short distance on the boardwalk. Amazing birdlife even from there, accompanied by numerous signs warning of all the wildlife !! Back for the kids to have a swim in the resort pool while Donald cooked dinner. yes, the mozzies are feral but probably only a degree or so worse than Brissie when they are bad. yes, it’s stinking hot but there is a sense of a cooler breeze at night. (Lynne)

Statistics for the day. Most notable because it is the first day I didn’t get the blog finished. I wrote the first paragraph while cooking dinner, but Lynne charitably left out that the night got all a bit late because while the others were grizzling in the car complaining about the heat and how hungry they were, and just wanted to get into the pool, I indulged myself with a sunset on Yellow Water. Then I foolishly used the camp kitchen to cook, which was interminably slow. By the time we ate some European backpackers ( 20 somethings) joined the kids in a game which went forever and I couldn’t get them to bed. Good fun, to be paid for later when getting them up before dawn for the cruise…

Oh, and only about 120km.