The Territory and Banka Banka

Tonight finds us in an unexpected gem. Banka Banka is a cattle property of sorts, currently part of the shrinking Kidman cattle empire but soon to be sold to the ILC – the Indigenous Land Corporation (?). There are currently very few cattle here, probably somewhat fewer than the grey nomads surrounding us in the current main pursuit of overnight tourism. We have just watched a slide presentation of the history of the property, part of three adjoining blocks covering some 12000 square km. Of the more than 3000 on this block, some 1200 has been let to a mining lease exploiting manganese for at least the next 20 years. It was originally settled by a childless couple before WWII who ran the property as a cattle station with the help of up to 300 aboriginal people, apparently in great harmony. The aboriginal children were educated variously locally, or sponsored into places in Adelaide or Alice Springs schools. With the passing of the original owners, the coming of land rights, and the changing roles of aboriginal people they have drifted away. This will change and the ILC model is to run a small cattle herd and educate aboriginal people in the way of cattle.

We covered a long road today, aided by a good start, good weather and good roads. This allowed us to get a little further than our plan of the three-ways roadhouse, which was a little uninspiring, perhaps reinforced by the requirement to hand over your drivers licence before they would enable the fuel pump. Your licence was returned on paying. Banka Banka is around 80km north. We chose not to go to Tennant Creek, as the lonely planet entry didn’t give it a good rap, reinforcing my earlier understanding. The presentation tonight also referred to aboriginal people not being allowed in town after dark, which could have contributed to the current state of  relations.

First stop was Camooweal. Our last town in Queensland was cold (14deg), overcast, windy, and a threat of drizzle. Then off to the border. Over the border and back into flat, treeless grass plains. This is the Barkly Tablelands, although at around 300m, you wouldn’t call it high. Through the day there were distinct changes in the vegetation and landscape. Sometimes flat, sometimes low rolling hills and rocky. Sometimes wattle in flower, sometimes gums. However, when the rocks came, gone was the orange-red of further east, replaced by a rich maroon red.

Dropped in to the Barkly Homestead, which is basically a pub, roadhouse and caravan/tourist park, apart from whatever else it may try to be. It was all very neat and tidy, but the sign at the front door apologising for the high prices, but blaming the 500 litre-per-day diesel generator habit, made me think they were just a little too comfortable. The did have some cute birds though.

More WWII history than I would have guessed. A lot of this country was developed as a supply line for troops during the war, sealing roads, digging bores and erecting buildings, which were carried away from the camps and onto properties at war’s end.

Got our first real good view of the Milky Way tonight and I was going to attempt my first star shot, but the clouds came over to spoil that. I don’t think it will be my last chance. Will try seeing the sunrise from the lookout in the morning, before making an attempt on Mataranka.

Statistics for the day. Covered about 750km. The economy was down a bit (10.5l/100)owing to the higher speed here in NT and the desire to cover some distance. However, I avoided paying $1.69 at the Barkly Homestead, instead opting for 164.9 at the Threeways. Ouch! I’m sure the news will be worse in the west, but 40cpl difference through the day hurt.